Chieftain No. 34

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Charles A Stewart
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Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

Good Evening all.

First off, don't expect of me the great works that Phil has just completed, this is my first foray into building this scale of armour.

Anyway, John Clarke recently and correctly pointed out where are the Chieftains?

So here I am. My aim is to have the chassis moving in the next couple of weeks. As I have said on the KT forum I am very easily distracted, especially by the Armopax/e-bay stuff, e.g. my Chieftain crew are equipped with compo rations, black overalls, helmets, GPMG, 58' webbing etc.

Still lacking a couple of Sterling SMGs though.
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Charles A Stewart
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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

And here is the rear view, I hope.
DSC01522.jpg

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John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by John Clarke »

Brilliant Charles, your a lot further forward than myself. Looking good 8)

Without Phil's barnstorming build we're certainly going to need new input into the Chieftain files.

Not quite as innovating as Phil but I'll be hoping to be add improvements where I can. :roll:
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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Phil Woollard »

Love it! 8)
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Email/ Exploration20@outlook.com

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

:cry: Tracks on!!

Although sadly, I think I will need to separate the tracks as the middle suspension units rattle a bit and adjust spring units.
The extra weight of batteries, hull plate and turret may work. I don't fancy trying to adjust suspension when vehicle is complete .
Charles

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

WP_20200906_19_06_14_Moment.jpg

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by John Clarke »

Hi Charles
I might be wrong, have been many times, but I don't think there's any adjustment on the suspension, other than relief on the spring by end part ESO206.
Once the weight compresses the springs that's it.
I have added small rubber blocks on the stops (on my post) to reduce over travel of the spring arm units, this prevents the spring units falling out :cry: when no load is on the bogie unit, removal of track etc. There are modified bogie units by other builders, but the spring lengths and the pressure don't change unless you add different springs. I might be wrong though :D
Looking great
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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

Thank you John for your observations, always welcome. I think the problem solved itself.

Went to wiggle the units this a.m. Solid!

Must have settled/bedded down overnight, really can't wait to get the chassis moving.

Cheers Charles

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

Just to say, after head scratching, panic (a bit),downloading "correct" manual, the wheels on the tank go round & round😊.

Like a toddler though I need to coordinate it's movement. I take it that there is a mix to combine the input to get a straight line?
That's tonight's homework.

Cheers all

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by John Clarke »

Good to know there's another Cheiftain out there moving under it's own steam.
Well done Charles
Depending what radio system you have, but I'm guessing you've got a 2.4 ghz set. You can either "dual stick control" with both hands or beer in left hand "single stick right hand control" using the basic "Elevon" mix, It's usually sitting some where on your transmitter menu.
I'll always point out, read up about what you want to achieve, Youtube it, test the control changes first with a pair of servo's with arms fitted unconnected to anything other than the receiver speed controller outputs, just to prove and observe operation.
Some people and I have found that "Berserker" mode (just connecting the receiver channel's up and switching on) is never a good look on such a large model.
Usually, though not always, you may have to increase the end travel of the channel output, again depending on the system. But this may increase the control output to give "more top end speed" from the speed controllers.
These days with the ever growing technology within the transmitter, there may be other ways maybe better ways to control the beast.
But in my book I keep it simples that way I rarely mess. :D
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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

Many thanks John, invaluable info. I did look in the manual on elevon page last night so I am getting there, I hope.

I like the idea of of 2 stick operation but I will stick to the basics as I find my feet, which by the way I wish to keep, so if the tank doesn't operate at full tilt initially that's fine.

The other advice, beer in left hand, I have been doing that while I consider that lovely casting at the front end, the next area for attention.

Cheers Charles

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Stephen White »

Charles

Good to see another Chieftain mobile. Two pointers, one, single stick operation is much easier to control than two and simpler to set up. Two, there are guides to setting up the controls on the Knowledge Base which are well tried and tested.

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

Thank you Stephen.
Page noted and will be followed. Once I get my head around that, we'll have to work on putting a video on the forum :?
Charles

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by Charles A Stewart »

eng out 2.jpg
Good evening (or is it!)

John, I have a beer in my right hand. Unfortunately on our maiden voyage in the garden we had a gear box failure :( hence the motors are out.

So tomorrow I will be talking to the engineering dept.

One saving grace though, the motors were not running at full tilt. We haven't got that far with that set up. The elevon worked well but needed reversing, which will now have to wait to be tested.

We have a video but won't post it until we are sorted.

Sorry about the disappointment.

Charles

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Re: Chieftain No. 34

Post by John Clarke »

Dreadful news Charles :cry: :evil: :twisted: .mixed emotions about this.
The cold beer should be in the left hand and the control of a wonderful model in the other, driving back to base should be the norm. Having to push the heavy lump back should not or be a very rare case.
On my reckoning of the known seven running Armortek Chieftain hulls that have completed, three have had running problems.
I'm a long way from running my model around, but I'm starting to think I need lots of access to the mechanical bits. Once the rear deck is tied down welds run and painted, the last thing you want to do is tear it up to get at the rumbling bits.
I'll be looking forward to the autopsy report to see what can be done,

May be set up a toten pole investigation. :lol:
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