A Chequered Chieftain at #10

Forum for discussion relating to the Chietain MBT
User avatar
Richard Goodwin
Posts: 240
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:46 pm
Has liked: 190 times
Been Liked: 141 times

Re: A Chequered Chieftain at #10

Post by Richard Goodwin » Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:01 pm

John.....if it was anything other than a Berlin Camo paint job, I'd agree with you......but this paint job will put a line down the middle at the front which i'm hoping will provide enough emphasis! Fingers crossed :twisted:

User avatar
Richard Goodwin
Posts: 240
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:46 pm
Has liked: 190 times
Been Liked: 141 times

Re: A Chequered Chieftain at #10

Post by Richard Goodwin » Tue Jun 30, 2020 5:26 pm

Ok so lets get these pesky idler blocks out the way. In case you've forgotten, here's the assembly diagram again....
First of all, the two halves were bolted together with the recommended hex heads and filed to remove machine marks and to match the halves together.....
matching halves.jpg
All the parts were then prepped, degreased and etch primed....
Assembly and testing for smoothness of operation occurred next....
finished pre studs.jpg
It was at this piont that I identified that one of the thread on one of the tensioning bolts was grating on the side of the block. By removing a little of the thread (in the position shown in the pic below), the bolt moved over sufficiently and smooth operation was restored.....
It was at this point that I'd thought I'd have a go and improve the blocks by carving webs and replacing the hex head bolts with studs and nyloc nuts. Unfortunately, I crashed and burned severely on the webs; I don't have the proper tooling to attempt this so it was a little risky and I paid the penalty! :oops: :oops: Fortunately, Kian had a replacement available. Now I could've used filler to plug the hole but I want my Chieftain to be as close to all metal as I can make it so the use of filler, resin and 3D printing is going to be the absolute minimum!

So after repairing the affected block, I carried on making the studs from some long hex head screws secured with Loctite Blue.....
Cut the heads off and added the M3 Nylocs with a little grinding off of the studs to finish.....
finished blocks.jpg
finished blocks.jpg (70.44 KiB) Viewed 116 times
On a separate note, the tracks are now all painted and assembled! Each tack measuring a tad over 2.4m!
Tyre fixing up next (with pictures) followed by an update on the exhaust box...oh yay.....deep joy :lol

User avatar
Richard Goodwin
Posts: 240
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:46 pm
Has liked: 190 times
Been Liked: 141 times

Re: A Chequered Chieftain at #10

Post by Richard Goodwin » Wed Jul 01, 2020 4:59 pm

Today's post is all about affixing the tyres to the various wheels. There are 36 wheels in total which have rubber tyres affixed; 24 road wheels and 12 return roller wheels. The method i used to affix the tyres is the same for both wheel types so I'll just show how I did the return rollers.

Now before affixing the tyres, I need to first address the issue of minimising the 'chainsaw massacre' affect on the roller spacer as I call it. There was a lot of talk about this you may recall and i must admit, I didn't like the idea of the track horn cutting into the roller spacer to bed in mainly because this would be causing unnecessary stress to the brass bush, the wheel shaft and the associated bearing. My solution was to cut a 1x1mm slot in the spacer thereby reducing the impact on the return roller components as shown below.....
SPacer cut views.jpg
This should I believe, also allow for a little tyre wear...

With that done, onto the tyres. Now some may recall that when I painted the wheels, I protected the rims with masking tape although a slight paint overlap was permitted. This tape has yet to be removed!

The night before fixing, the tyres were placed on the rollers with the tape still in place......
and positioned as they would normally be...
They were left in a warm room overnight to settle and form to the shape of the wheels.

The following day, the tyres and masking tape were removed, and the rim cleaned with degreaser ensuring that all traces of the masking tape were removed...
Now the glue of choice here is Loctite 480 which is specially developed for fixing rubber to metal. Its very runny and a little goes a long way! In addition, it dries very quickly and stains terribly so you need to move quickly once you dispense it and wear gloves that are impervious to liquid on both hands to prevent staining!

A bead of Loctite the width of the nozzle was placed all around the wheel circumference and quickly spread out evenly with a finger. The wheel was then placed on the work surface with the outside face pointing upwards.......
When the tyre is pushed over the rim, any surplus glue is pushed to the back face of the wheel thereby protecting the finish of the front face....
Slide the tyre into position then rotate it around the wheel to give an even coating of glue. Any excess will be squeezed out on the back face....
Wipe off the excess with a cloth dipped in solvent, check the position of the tyre and adjust if necessary. Leave to harden, it wont take long at all!!
And thats it........only another 35 to do :lol: :lol:

One last thing, I wasn't sure how much Loctite I would need to do all the tyres; now I do! A 20g bottle should be sufficient providing your not bathing the wheels in it :lol:

User avatar
John Clarke
Posts: 737
Joined: Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:06 pm
Location: Staffordshire
Been Liked: 515 times

Re: A Chequered Chieftain at #10

Post by John Clarke » Wed Jul 01, 2020 7:42 pm

Nice one Richard. Leatherface won't be catching you on the idlers :lol:
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
Definatley an Anti-Social type

Post Reply