Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Forum for discussion relating to the Chietain MBT
Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Mon Jan 13, 2020 12:42 pm

Many thanks for those photos Steve 8)
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Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:41 pm

Some more progress. 8) more words when I have been fed and watered.
Attachments
IMG_20200113_151552_hdr_kindlephoto-37984525.jpg
If your going down the extra detail route and decide to use the white profile material then....
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Get one of these, they are very accurate indeed, you can also cut fake nuts with ease.
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May I suggest that you align all the hatch louver divisions whilst it's all on the bench of you will have a hell of a job.
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Once you have each hatch adjusted correctly, and that takes an awful lot of filling and bending to achieve a smooth operation, then a final hinge tighten and an application of milliput weld bead and it will all stay in place.
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If you have ever hung a stable door then you will know the amount of fetling involved in getting this lot to align.
Mechanical engineer, Pyrotechnic technician, and small time farmer.
Youtube channel, Magpiespyro. For 1/6th scale video action!
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Phil Woollard
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:19 pm

Busy day in the workshop.
Attachments
IMG_20200114_163930_hdr_kindlephoto-8458998.jpg
If anyone's interested I can post how I did the side lights tomorrow.
IMG_20200114_164552_hdr_kindlephoto-8440997.jpg
All done for the deck hatches but always weld beads to finish
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I'm planning the T piece removable mounts
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At present the turret touches the rear deck
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Checking clearance options
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All done
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Fillet piece being marked out
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They don't fit first time.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mechanical engineer, Pyrotechnic technician, and small time farmer.
Youtube channel, Magpiespyro. For 1/6th scale video action!
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Kevin Hunter
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Kevin Hunter » Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:17 pm

still loving every second of this build Phil, amazing work and so many hints and tips for those of us less gifted. Thankyou on behalf of the forum as a whole, those of us with Chieftains to build in particular.

As for the sidelights...... “yes please”, obviously :D

Cheers
Kevin

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Stephen White
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Stephen White » Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:24 pm

"At present the turret touches the rear deck"

That's because the kit hull is raised in the area of the engine covers. On the real Chieftain, it's only the transmission decks which were raised, in order to accommodate an increased capacity exhaust system. If anyone chooses to enhance the accuracy of the model, it will require "engine deck lowering" - sounds familiar to anyone who built one of the first Tiger models?

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:35 pm

Cheers Kevin and I will post the side light pics tomorrow, Stephen Ivano will have a fit with any less room for the engine! 8)
Oh I found this photo of the rear bin. The photo caption refers to the "red lead" stowage bin lid and interior. 8)
I'm looking for a good photo of the front lights wiring route if anyone has any I would be so grateful! 8)
Attachments
IMG_20200114_183651_hdr_kindlephoto-11517858.jpg
Mechanical engineer, Pyrotechnic technician, and small time farmer.
Youtube channel, Magpiespyro. For 1/6th scale video action!
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John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke » Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:02 pm

Stephen White wrote:
Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:24 pm
"At present the turret touches the rear deck"

That's because the kit hull is raised in the area of the engine covers. On the real Chieftain, it's only the transmission decks which were raised, in order to accommodate an increased capacity exhaust system. If anyone chooses to enhance the accuracy of the model, it will require "engine deck lowering" - sounds familiar to anyone who built one of the first Tiger models?
I once worked for an engineer that would pace out a wiring job. He thought one stride was a meter, we worked it out it was only a yard.

For a leaving present we gave him a quality tape measure with the first inch removed. :lol:

So,I'm buying more kebab's then? :roll:
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Richard Goodwin
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Richard Goodwin » Tue Jan 14, 2020 10:19 pm

This is probably a daft question Phil but have you got the spacer ring and toothed drive ring attached to the turret? It seems to me you only need the height of the spacer ring to clear the deck.

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John Clarke
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke » Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:42 am

I don't think putting the spacer either side of the toothed ring would make any difference if that's what your saying Richard.

During Youngjae's build, he wrote

"I put a turret in the tank body today.
At first, I made it like a manual, set it up, then turned the bolts and turret that secure the wedge rails and leveled the turret at about 20ea of 5mm washers before I realized that the interference would go away and spin very smoothly."

If we look at his super clear pictures we can see what appears to be long set screws, nuts and spacers attaching the toothed ring and spacer to the turret, Lifting the turret 5 mm off the bearing ring.

Seeing the turret fitted, we can now see the gap generated by the spacers
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By shaving some material off the underside of the rear of the turret I'm sure you'll be able to clear the deck like with the Armortek build. The gap between the turret to the front plate armor is a lot less. I also noticed that the turret roof plate is slightly bent upwards allowing the whole bustle to be lifted at the back end, a little more clearance needed possibly?
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Or just change the rear deck like Stephen suggests. :)
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Wed Jan 15, 2020 8:40 am

We also need to reduce the thickness of the drivers hatch too! 8)
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IMG_20200114_163710_hdr_kindlephoto-8497501.jpg
Mechanical engineer, Pyrotechnic technician, and small time farmer.
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Email; philandkris2@hotmail.com

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by John Clarke » Wed Jan 15, 2020 11:16 am

Oh yes, the "Slab" that should be fun. :lol:
Once it's been thinned out, the lifting bolt/shaft will be more exposed.
In the model boat world you can buy small rubber bellows units quite cheaply on fleabay
Put in search or something like it.

Rubber Bellows Fittings RC Boat 2pcs Push Rod Seal Radio Kit Replacement Parts

Ideal for the hatch lifting bolt/shaft cover bellows. Put a light spring inside the bellows and you have a pop up hatch!
You could use one of your latches to hold the hatch down too. 8)
s-l1.jpg
s-l1.jpg (105.04 KiB) Viewed 240 times
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:31 pm

They look good, I will take a gander 8) see below John I have cut the drivers hatch down, please note the section is tapered, thicker at the front thinner at the rear, or is it the other way round? Now the recess needs sorting out.
Attachments
IMG_20200115_115615_hdr_kindlephoto-39292814.jpg
IMG_20200115_115331_hdr_kindlephoto-38560420.jpg
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Wed Jan 15, 2020 4:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Shaun Hunt » Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:05 pm

Hi All

Out of curiosity I had to test fit my turret, all looks ok.
The gap is small but there is clearance for the rear of the turret. I have not used any extra spacers

Regards
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IMG_0974.JPG

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Shaun Hunt » Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:08 pm

Hi Phil,

Great looking build by the way, I hope my build turns out as good, I don't have the machinery to attempt any of the really extensive mods on the hull.

Regards

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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

Post by Phil Woollard » Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:15 pm

Hi Shaun, maybe keep an eye on the clearance issue as you add more parts, you may be lucky but it's no big deal, I shall remove some of the underside of the turret or add shims ....what ever seems more appropriate. 8)
The side lights.
Attachments
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You could use plastic tube but I have used brass, a plumbing pipe cutter is good.
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Use a round file to start the slot for the fender brace, then finish with a square, you can't really use a hack saw on thin brass tube or you risk bending it.
IMG_20200114_155908_hdr_kindlephoto-8591729.jpg
Find an led that fits the tube or vice versa, you could cut and open the brass piece section at the bottom to look more like the 1/1.
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The wires simply follow the fender bracket channel, you need to drill an exit hole for the cable at the rear of the brace then it's over to head light cluster and down into the hull.
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I will paint out the two inner lenses as these are the ir lamps.
Mechanical engineer, Pyrotechnic technician, and small time farmer.
Youtube channel, Magpiespyro. For 1/6th scale video action!
Email; philandkris2@hotmail.com

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