Tiger build

[Robert E Morey]

Hi Mark,
Can you add a few details how you "milled" the rear deck with Router? I am currently stalled with same problem. Removing the rear hull plate to lower it - involves complete disassembly of the hull with welds, RTV sealant etc. I'd like to mill it in situ but didn't think of using the router. Surely you have a guide of some kind for the router to travel on? I don't have to remove any of the fittings luckily as none have been installed -but will have to drill all new holes for exhaust etc.

Lovely details all around. Really enjoying your Tiger project.
Best regards,
Bob

[mark j. radick]

Hi Mark,
Can you add a few details how you "milled" the rear deck with Router? I am currently stalled with same problem. Removing the rear hull plate to lower it - involves complete disassembly of the hull with welds, RTV sealant etc. I'd like to mill it in situ but didn't think of using the router. Surely you have a guide of some kind for the router to travel on? I don't have to remove any of the fittings luckily as none have been installed -but will have to drill all new holes for exhaust etc.

Lovely details all around. Really enjoying your Tiger project.
Best regards,
Bob

Hi Robert...I just c clamped some large rectangle alum bar stock I have to form a "table" to run the router on with a straight edge guide to run the router along...took time to set up true but the milling went rather quickly

[mark j. radick]

Rear deck done...went with 3/16" alum plate ..thick enough to drill and tap for sq head bolts used for the grill work

[mark j. radick]

Decided to remove stock mud flap mounting frames and make scale frames...A&B epoxy putty was used for simulated welds ..tough stuff as I had to beat the old frames off and the welds held up !

[Robert E Morey]

Thanks for the reply Mark. I figured you'd have to make some kind of rails for the router to move on. Take light cuts etc. Your results look good. Your mudflap frames look great. You must have access to CNC?

Also the rear deck support bracket behind the turret (with holes) - is that home made? Mine is steel (Gen 1 Late Tiger 1 kit). I like the looks of the alum bracket and how it supports the deck.
Best regards,
Bob

[mark j. radick]

Been working on rear end..just need to add some weld details then off to paint...A #3 clock key fits the Armortek square head bolts perfectly !

[mark j. radick]

Finished rear end ...just need to add Feifel filters...after deck is done...the rust on shrouds is real not simulated...very simple and quick to do...spray a slow drying clear...dust with dusting bulb filled with fine iron powder...let dry and spray a mixture of 75% hydrogen peroxide, 20% white vinegar and 5% table salt... the iron coating starts to rust instantly ! and works on most surfaces ...

[mark j. radick]

The reflector...reflects !

[mark j. radick]

So many details hidden.....

[Phil Woollard]

The shading and build quality is great!

[mark j. radick]

I'm one of those people that is never satisfied ..with my work..I put a few more hours into the rear end....just seemed a little " cartoonish " to me this morning...OCD for sure

[florian rudolf]

Verry nice detail building... I'm looking forward to see more

[mark j. radick]

Was going to cut the kit supplied deck ... filling a good percentage of the pre drilled holes did not appeal to me...so I cut a new deck... for me this was a non issue....cutting the new deck would be quicker for me rather than filling all the pre existing holes plus the deck integrity is much higher ...the deck will flex during removal allowing the filler to "pop" creating an issue for sure....just need to turn the hatch rings and vent then cut hatch holes ...mount hatch rings and brass turret bearing...so happy to be working on hull deck !

[mark j. radick]

Turned and installed deck hatch rings...I will rivet brass turret bearing with brass rivets then cut flush with top surface making an uninterrupted and uniform bearing surface

[mark j. radick]

Fastened turret bearing...love using rivets... before and after pics...the rivet virtually disappears maintaining the integrity of the bearing..( no pocket for lubricant and natural abrasives to accumulate affecting performance...turret should glide like on ice with just a smear of good quality grease ) once riveted a few minutes of "draw" filing and the rivet disappears
also cut perimeter relief to accept simulated weld and primered...now on to the fun stuff ! detailing !