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Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 11:18 am
by Dennis Jones
Do you use Component Shop for batteries Mick as they are not far from you I think. I have always used their's and the ones in the Comet and Tiger have been in for about 8 years now and they still last for 2 days at a show with out recharge. Build looks good as always.

Dennis.

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 12:00 pm
by Derek Attree
Hi Mick
Second the use of batteries from Component shop great company to deal with and good prices.

Never had a problem with there stuff.

Regards

Derek

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 7:12 pm
by michael hilton
Hello Dennis and Derek, yes I am using the Component Shop, next day delivery as well. I am thinking of a new charger, any thoughts on these 'pulse' chargers, I have noticed on eBay.
With the new 'options', would you, or any other Forum members charge both batteries in series at 24v. I usually charge each battery at 12v individually.
My current charger is very basic and give no information other than the green charge LED dims somewhat. I often over charge because of this. I know the Knowledge Base will have answers...would be nice to have members thoughts :) ..Mick

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 9:14 pm
by Adrian Harris
I've returned to using a pair of 22Ah batteries in the Bridgelayer, mainly for the weight.

I use a pair of Ctek 5A chargers to charge them individually, so have incorporated a GT Power 180A watt meter into each of the charging leads.

These tell me the voltage, total time to charge, total Ah returned to the battery and the real-time current transfer.

From the results I'm seeing on the BL, it's obvious that one of the batteries is failing, as it takes far long to reach the correct charge than the other one, even though the Ctek is saying the charging cycle has finished. I'm going to replace them with 36Ah batteries, but will wait till the start of the new season before I purchase them.

I would never lead acid batteries in series, especially with a 'dumb' charger, otherwise this is likely to happen:

2017-05-16_12-55-42.jpg

Adrian.

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 12:06 pm
by Dennis Jones
Hi Mick,

I have been using a 24 volt automatic mobile scooter charger for the last 8 years, it came free. I also have a 12/24 volt bog standard charger from Amazon that I bought when I built the Panzer 3 in 2008 and I have used it since, all it has is a boost switch and a current meter. I never leave my tanks on charge all the time, I only charge them up 2 or 3 days before I am either going to a show or Bovvy and that's at least twice a month. I charge them both at the same time in series (24 volts) never had a problem. Total no of vehicles Tiger 1, Comet, 251 Halftrack and Diamond T truck all with 24 volts. Don't know anything about pulse chargers so can't offer an opinion.

Dennis.

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2019 7:36 am
by michael hilton
Thank you for your advice Adrian and Dennis. I have a mobility type charger....never used it as it is a 24v. I understand both comments reference charging at 24v in series, I do prefer to charge individually 12v batteries. Anyway, food for thought. I will get the batteries ordered this weekend.
Thanks again guys...Mick

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:11 am
by Robert Reid
Mick, your workshop is always way too neat and organized!

Cheers and beautiful build!

RPR

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:30 pm
by michael hilton
Thank you Robert, and good evening everyone.
Problem; THE BENCH TEST..., I have my two fully charged YUASA 12v 22Ah batteries connected....Isolator switch and the Motor Control A to the Power Module connected. I have the left and right motors connected. I have the RC 1 and 2 on the Motion Control A connected to the receiver. I have my trusty Spektrum DX6 and the latest SPMAR620 6 channel receiver, 'bound', (which replaced the Rx AR610). Note, there are numbers 1 to 6 on this Rx AR620, not names, ie Rudd, Gear, Elev.
I have followed the written instructions carefully.
After some six hours the best result I can get is....on the Tx I have forward/reverse, up/down set on the right motor and working fine on the right hand stick. At the same time the left motor runs continually in every position on the Rx. I have no control over the left motor. I have checked the knowledge base, set and reset the Tx. I gave up about ten minutes ago.....it's been a long frustrating day, I would appreciate any considered reply...I would kick the dog if we had one....Mick

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:08 pm
by John Clarke
Glad I'm not a dog, :lol:

I often set up just servo's on the receiver to prove the actions of the radio system before connecting one plug at a time to the actual control gear.

Without actually seeing your setup becomes difficult to fault find, but I would say (sorry about the B obvious) check the radio control plugs are connected correctly and the right way round,including extensions, It's difficult to make mistakes with Futaba plugs, but other manufactures equipment will allow this mistake to happen, again check the plugs are connected to three pins and not two, the times I've done that , (It's my Fat fingers honest)
Chill, I find a chocolate bar, a coffee and a bit of time will sort things out.
At least it's not smoking :roll:

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 7:51 pm
by michael hilton
Hello John and thank you for the reply. I have checked the Rc leads, the strange thing is, like yourself, I plugged a Rx battery into the Rx. Then plugged the servos into the Rx. Bound the Tx, both servos work as you would expect, no problem. Right stick, left stick, servo move in the correct manner. So I thought, this is a doddle....the instructions for the new Options are a joy.....as I said before, one motor runs as expected...the other has a mind of it's own...Is it something to do with the 'one stick operation ' I prefer two sticks.
I love dogs, I'm getting miserable in my old age...Mick

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 9:46 pm
by Vince Cutajar
Michael, I went back to my notes and found this sentence which might or might not be useful to you:

"I concluded that if one needs two stick operation one has to use the receiver throttle and elevator outputs to control the motors whilst if one wants one stick operation one has to use the receiver elevator and aileron outputs instead."

Receiver output number 4 = Elevator
Receiver output number 5 = Aileron
Receiver output number 6 = Throttle

Vince

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:22 pm
by michael hilton
Thank you Vince, I appreciate your help. I have tried any number of combinations, none have worked. There are two receiver leads from the Motion Control, called RC1 and RC2 which connect to the receiver, ALE and ELE. The left/right hand motor ( dependant on which way you look ) runs fine, forward/reverse. The other motor no matter how it is configured run continuously....Mick

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 1:01 am
by John Clarke
Hi Mick
Does the motor run with power on but no connection to receiver. If so esc faulty.
Have you tried a completely different rc set. 2 channel would do just to try the drive control.
If it works it could be a compatability problem.
If it has the same problem. Connected directly into the receiver it could be a esc fault again.
I know it may sound like the B obvious but keep simple and you'll get result one way or another.

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Thu Nov 14, 2019 4:10 pm
by michael hilton
Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen, update with my radio control 'bench setup' for the M3 Grant. I have the new 'Recoil Pack, not the new Special Grant Pack.
Kian kindly checked the Tx, Rx and Motion Control A.
This is my progress; I am using my Spektrum DX6 and a 6 channel Spektrum AR620 Sport receiver. I have also tried my 6 channel Spektrum AR610 receiver. I have two new 12v 22Ah YUASA batteries and a Ctek charger. The batteries are fully charged.
Step 1, Testing the main drive. All connections made as per the instructions, Motors respond on the right hand stick, forward/reverse single stick control.
Step 2, Adding the Audio Option Pack. Audio Module connected, speakers connected, RC 1 and 2 to the respective Y cable connectors. RC 3 to the receiver on a three position switch B on the transmitter. Programmed the sounds, using the 'teach' button. All sounds are triggered and respond as expected.
Step 3, motion control B to the power module, turret motor turns/works on left hand stick, left/right. Slew servo working. The main gun servo also works and the LED flashes when selecting the appropriate sound number 2.

Couple of issues I require help with.
The Hull machine guns work on the MG sound number 4, the LEDs do not flash.... I have tested the LEDs alone, they flash ok.
Also, I am unable to set up the elevation servo on the receiver. I have two channels, the Slew is on one of these. I have tried swopping the leads.
Connecting the Elevation RC lead on the Motion Pack B to the receiver, causes a two lead cable from the Motor Control B to become 'live' so I guess this is for a Special Pack motor.
I have some photo's not sure these will help though. Fingers crossed....Mick
PS, when I connect the Motion Control Module B turret turn, to the receiver, rudder, I have no motor movement????My brain hurts...
If anyone has installed the options, have you found the main 75mm gun and the 37mm sound much the same.. more like a polite cough. :roll:

Re: Mick's Grant

Posted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 8:21 am
by michael hilton
Morning all, reference the 'bench setup', I have decided on a new beginning, a fresh start, a new dawn, a new day, hope springs eternal....
Now, I'm not the brightest button in the box, however can someone explain this...when I connect the RC lead attached to Motor Control B... which has a label saying 'connect to receiver elevation' the exposed twin black/red lead, along side the RC lead... is 'live', gave me quite a shock, not literally.
I taped the live lead safe as I do not have a motor or anything to connect this live feed to.... Mick