Phils Famo build

Forum for discussion relating to the Sdkfz 9 (FAMO)
Derek Attree
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Derek Attree » Sat Oct 27, 2018 6:49 pm

Hi Phil
I made a 12 mm thick plywood extended cover for my lift table clamped
at the back by the handel to stop it tipping makes life a lot safer.

I am building a Polly 5" inch coal fired saddle tank loco at the moment
I hope to finish around christmas so I can start the Famo.

I am planing to have my Famo in German grey.

As I alway wanted to build somthing in that colour.

Regards

Derek
we must stop making stupid predictions

Phil Woollard
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Sat Oct 27, 2018 7:30 pm

Simon I think the degree setting tool was bought from ebay.
Derek I love Live steam loco's you can always post a a couple of photos for us in the "off topic" section. Your Famo will look great in German grey.
I'm hoping as the Famo gets bigger it will balance on the tracks and be a bit more stable on my lift but a a plywood extension would be a good idea!
Regards Phil.
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David McConnell
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by David McConnell » Sun Oct 28, 2018 2:09 am

Hi Phil,
I too am watching with interest as my Famo is on a round world trip on its way to Australia ..... half of it has got to go to Germany and now it’s in Kentucky! :lol:

I am very interested in the smaller M3 screws you have used and if you could send a link. I’m pretty sure I have some floating around with all my other partly started, nearly finished Armortek models but probably not enough for the Famo.

They do look more to scale than the standard M3 head. Have you swapped any others out as well?

On a side note, I’m glad you asked about filing a flat re the Famo, because my poor Tiger tank basically collapsed under its own weight due to not have flats on the torsion bars and has been waiting for me to pull it apart for too many years to confess to fix. My Tiger is actually the last one sold prior to Gill and Mark taking over Armortek so she’s a true first batch! Although I have upgraded it so much it may as well be current.

Would love to know if you have advice on getting loctite undone as that’s pretty much what’s holding up my Tiger fix. Sorry for digressing but don’t get to talk about my hobby much as my wife turns up her nose and disappears when I do ...

Lucky she doesn’t know about the King Tiger I still have in boxes in the roof ..... :lol: :lol:

Dave

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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:13 am

Hi David, those m3 with the small heads that I posted a photo of are nickel plated and have different height heads but I can't for the life of me remember where they came from, check out this famo thread as there are a couple of links to companies that supply them, I use the ones I have for the Tiger and Panther deck fixings. I may use them else where on the famo but not decided just yet but I will post if i do.

Reference the flats on the torsion bar fixed ends, Armortek say you don't need to and I respect that statement but in practice i have seen many suspension system that have gone south, so it's belt and braces for me and easy to apply when building from new, so I will leave it with you.

Reference getting loctite undone, simply apply some heat to the bolt or screw and turn away! The small "chefs" blow torch for the smaller delicate fixings and a plumbers torch for bigger stuff. ( keep away from the white metal though!)

Kind regards Phil
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Sun Oct 28, 2018 8:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Sun Oct 28, 2018 8:36 am

A little help from you guy's that have the full motion pack please, As i generally put together my own motion and sound and smoke systems (using mainly Armortek parts) I have no idea of the recommended placing of the components like the steering arrangement offered in the motion pack for the Famo,

1, how is the steering servo mounted, and how is it controlled in conjunction with the track steering?(Y leads?)
2, what size and type of servo is used (big I would think)?
3, what size of winch motor and gearbox are they using?
4, what size batteries and where are they recommended to be placed?

A couple of photos of the relevant pages would be great. Email me if you prefer.

I have a few ideas of maybe storing the batteries in large packing crates in the load area along with all the control modules, I want to keep the area under and between the load deck and chassis clear for detailing the gear box, air tanks and exhausts etc. I am also very keen to preserve the classic Famo silhouette for VT and photographic work, see photo below.

Now I could ask Armortek for details but they are extremely busy right now.



Regards Phil.
Attachments
th (2).jpg
th (2).jpg (15.74 KiB) Viewed 1844 times
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Sun Oct 28, 2018 4:21 pm

As it's the day of our Lord i have only tinkered today. Whilst tinkering with the track i have encountered a slight problem, nothing to serious but a pain all the same. It's an easy fix but it may or may not scupper Florians plans for more scale like fixings. I'll elaborate tomorrow :wink:
Attachments
sdkfz-9-famo-tamiya (1).jpg
Now that's a full load.
sdkfz-9-famo-tamiya (1).jpg (72.81 KiB) Viewed 1801 times
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:27 am

The track fix, the problem is on the one face only, the other side has been recessed as part of the casting and is not a problem. I think on refection that you could now use m3 scale hex heads but im going to stick with stock, if you do use hex heads you would have to use a long series socket due to the awkward angle, a spanner would take for ever.
The bonding can be done by lifting the edges of the rubber blocks and applying that way, just dont apply to much or you will contaminate the threads!
Attachments
DSC_1593.JPG
The problem, as you can see the button heads dont sit square and there for not flat against the track face
DSC_1594.JPG
The button heads should sit like this.
DSC_1596.JPG
The other side with the recess integral.
DSC_1598.JPG
A quick fix is to use a 6mm drill bit, this bit would be better ground flat but would not be guided by the m3 clearance hole. You could jig and mill but most of us dont have a mill, note the angle as we are just trying to remove the material from the lower edge of the hole.
DSC_1599.JPG
Thats all that needs to be removed, dont push to hard it is not steel its cast ali! You could use a drill bit in a holder and twist by hand if your not confident with the drill driver.
DSC_1600.JPG
All the button heads now sit square and look neat.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Mon Oct 29, 2018 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Dennis Jones
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Dennis Jones » Mon Oct 29, 2018 11:30 am

Regarding the steering servo Phil, the last I heard was that they were going to use a linear actuator with self centering, but that may have changed.

Dennis.

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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Mon Oct 29, 2018 11:55 am

Thanks Dennis, its all new to me but sounds like thats the way to go :D Regards Phil.
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florian rudolf
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by florian rudolf » Mon Oct 29, 2018 12:39 pm

Hi Phil,

great work and so fast... I'm looking at scale screws for the track link. Also take other screws for the wheels like you do.

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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Mon Oct 29, 2018 4:56 pm

Hi Forian, I'm building the tracks, about two days work i would think ,regards Phil
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:15 pm

A very fiddly and repetitive job but what a fantastic end result, just got to do the other side now! Not much done today as Im getting the Quad ready for her trip to Exeter tomorrow.
Attachments
DSC_1602.JPG
As with all the other Armortek tracked vehicles the tracks need to be handed with the split pins facing out
DSC_1601.JPG
No rubber for the wheels as yet, just as soon as I have finished the tracks I will top coat the wheels and surrounding areas bond the tyres on
DSC_1603.JPG
Hope i have the links the right way round.
Last edited by Phil Woollard on Tue Oct 30, 2018 7:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Brian Ostlind
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Brian Ostlind » Tue Oct 30, 2018 2:26 pm

That looks cool. Nice photos. What do you use to bond the tires?
epic

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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Phil Woollard » Tue Oct 30, 2018 3:20 pm

"Araldite" mainly, there are lots of different brand names I think you guys may know the "gorilla" brand epoxy. My experience with the sticky stuff has taught me to check the use by date, and if it's out of date it can, go off to fast or never seem to go off at all. 5 minuet epoxy is to quick for wheels so I generally use a 10 min, which takes about 15 minuets depending on age and temperature :)

There's a bigger gap between the tyre and the wheel with this famo kit, this may make the job easier as some kits in the past have had very tight fitting tyres....we will see quite soon. :)
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Re: Phils Famo build

Post by Armortek » Tue Oct 30, 2018 11:57 pm

Brian Ostlind wrote:
Tue Oct 30, 2018 2:26 pm
That looks cool. Nice photos. What do you use to bond the tires?
We use loctite 480 at the factory. Clean surfaces first and you will have a very strong bond - will rip the rubber before the adhesive gives way.
Also recommended for ensuring the track rubber stays bonded to the inserts.

Kian
Armortek

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