T1 overhaul

[Mick Coleman]

Ok, did some more work on the old girl today. Now we have motion, sound (always on, I need to work out how to fix) turret turn and gun elevation. I've started detailing her now. I've also got to hook the smoke up, almost done!

[Mick Coleman]

We now have smoke.

Proportionate smoke.
http://youtu.be/gQf-CJotdhg

Turret and gun elevation video.
http://youtu.be/L_FO3xkh3Q0

[leesellars]

Hello Mick

The early sound systems where very tempamental. The sound sometime always on and sometimes it doesnt come on at all. also it is not proportional.

lee

[Adrian Harris]

> Also does it have a volume? Things as loud as buggery.

Yes, but buried inside.

You need to remove the four screws from the corners of the plastic case, then remove the lid and extract the circuit board from the box.

At the heatsink end of the PCB, you should see two small black square parts with what looks like a white arrow in the centre. One is marked VolEng, I couldn't read what the other said.

These are rotary resistors and control the volume of the engine sounds (VolEng) and other sounds. With a small flat bladed screwdriver, you should be able to rotate the central white hub to adjust the volume of the sounds. The central section will only rotate for a certain arc - about 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock - not all the way round.

Be very careful not to let any part of the PCB contact anything or it'll go really quiet really quick

Adrian.

[Mick Coleman]

Thanks lads.

[Mick Coleman]

Lads will a new set of T1 tracks stretch at all during the first few hours of run time? Also what's the best primer and paint for an Armortek?

Thanks Mick

[Adrian Harris]

They won't stretch per se but any burrs or other high spots from the casting will get flattened out, so they do grow a little.

I'll leave the paint advice to the professionals

Adrian.

[Mick Coleman]

Took the old girl for a good run today and she went very well. Next step is to replace all electrical connectors with t-plugs and the like. Very happy.

[Mick Coleman]

Took her out last night and noticed a sound that sounds like gears slipping when she turns, might be a loss pinion gear or something? I'll check that out during the week.
Also what do you recommend to use as a primer and top coat?

[Mick Coleman]

What's the best way to get the drive sprockets off one of these old girls?

[Mick Coleman]

Also whats the best way to adjust the suspention?

Thanks Mick

[Adrian Harris]

G'day Mick.

> What's the best way to get the drive sprockets off one of these old girls?

Does she have taper lock bushes or the older, three hole plate jobbie ?

For a taper lock bush, undo the two opposing grub screws and then slowly insert on into the unused hole. This should expand the taper lock bush slightly and allow it to release from the drive shaft.

For the older style sprockets, there are two M4 CSK bolts which hold the retaining disk to the sprocket casting, and a central M5 CSK bolts which holds the disk (and sprocket) to the drive shaft.

One both methods there is also a small square key which fits into a keyway machined into both the drive shaft and the sprocket or taper lock bush.

On the older models there are two areas to look at if the drive isn't working correctly.

The first is the motor mounting. On the very first Tiger's, the motors bolted to the floor in two places. This meant that hull flex could affect the meshing of the motor and main drive gears. There is an upgrade available, so that the motor can be bolted to the hull side using a large round bush, in place of the forward floor mounting. This should eliminate any meshing issues.

The second is more serious and is because the original main drive gears were made from two parts - the drive shaft and gear itself. Under heavy load, it was found that the Parvalux motor had the power to twist the shaft away from the gear. This leads to total loss of drive on the affected side, so this doesn't sound like your problem. Again, there is an option to retro fit new Tiger main gears, as these are now machined from a single piece of steel, so can't fail in the same way.

Adrian.

[Adrian Harris]

It might be worth taking a look at Rich Stinchcomb's website, as he details the build of his Tiger, with lots of detail shots of how it went together:

http://one6armor.stinch.com/index.html

Adrian.

[Mick Coleman]

Dam not looking good, thank you so much for your help mate. Mark can I please grab the details in relation to these two upgrades?

[Armortek]

Mick

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Mark