T1 overhaul

[Mick Coleman]

Hi, first post in the overhaul of a good mates T1. This old girl was completed in 2003 and has been a shelf queen ever since. I received her about a week ago with the orders to get her going again and give her a face lift. My plan is to give her a light overhaul to start with. Get her running and let her settle into her skin. Then at a later date we'll go all out on her.
Her arrival.



The workshop.

[Mick Coleman]

Full clean out

Onto the road wheels

[Mick Coleman]

All back together now and time for a light wash and detailing. This step will take me well into next week.

[Mick Coleman]

We have life.

http://youtu.be/x-itEGU6VpE

[Mick Coleman]

Question, there's movement back and forth in the idler set up. I've followed the plans but I must be doing something wrong. How does this system work?

[Mick Coleman]

Also what's the best to use to simulate an antenna?

[Adrian Harris]

> I've followed the plans but I must be doing something wrong. How does this system work?

Could you post a picture of the inside and outside of the adjustment screw, as this seems to be something which gets put together wrongly on these Tigers

Adrian.

[John Fitzsimons]

Make sure the head of the adjusting screw is inside the cup and not screwed in from outside the tank.

[Mick Coleman]

Ok, outside idler set up.

Cap removed

Inside

I've not fitted the track yet, but there's a mm or two movement back and forth with the idler wheels.

[Mick Coleman]

Can I also get some help with the wiring set up lads. I'm using an DX6i radio with no recoil fitted.
Can anyone tell me what these two are used for?

The wires from the sound unit are a mess, can anyone please shed some light on this mess?

When I connect the elevation motor, it runs constantly (up) I'm taking it that these micro switches turn that set up on and off. Can anyone please help here to?


Sorry the wiring on this old girl is a mess and I'm not that good with wiring diagrams.

Mick

[Mick Coleman]

Make sure the head of the adjusting screw is inside the cup and not screwed in from outside the tank.

Mate are you saying the adjusting screw never leaves the hull? So if I turn the brass cup around and place the screw inside the hull I should be right?

[John Fitzsimons]

Yes, i think the brass cup may be wrong way round. Head of cap head will then press against the inside of the cup. I think that is right. Thats how mine is set up but i could be wrong. I will have a look at the instructions again tonight. Looking at your pictures the cap head looks like it is pushed forward by the inspection cover and i think this would explain the play.
I am terrible with electronics. The switches limit the elevation. On mine there is a long wiring loom with black heatshrink. Four connectors 2 red to topmost and bottom connectors on the limit switches and the coloured to the inner connectors. I will be connecting mine up this week and i will let you know how i get on. I think my wiring is different to yours though. Do you have instructions for set up. Gill might send you some .

[Mick Coleman]

Thanks mate, I do have the instructions I'm just trying to make heads or tails of it. Electronics hate me!

[Armortek]

Hello Mick

With regard to your track adjuster, the cup should be on the inside of the hull with the cap head screw sitting in it. The track tension holds it in place. To tighten, the bolt is "unscrewed", which pushes the arm away from the rear plate. You should have about 20mm travel.

The two wires in your picture from the control box are for your 5Volt battery supply. (you will need a seperate 5Volt battery for your model) The socket connects to the battery, the plug connects to your reciever. Operating the switch on the control box then switches both your radio and main batteries on and off.

You will need to refer to your instructions with regard to the old type sound unit you have. It is too complicated to explain here. We can send you a new copy if you need it.

Generally take care, because you have a very old model, and most of the advice coming from other bulders here will refer to more recent builds, and may not apply to your model. You also have the option to upgrade to the new module system if you prefer, this is much easier to set up and use.
Regards
Mark

[John Fitzsimons]

That's good anout the track adjusters. I was expecting a load of posts saying I had it wrong. I had it same way as you at one time.