Part 2... sorry about the wait it's been a bit crazy this week.
The Build Continues...
Moving onto the main neck servo again - Corona CS-929MG - choose the 2 arm servo horn from the accessories pack. In the accessories that came with your figure kit you should find 2x short screws, these need to be trimmed down a little as per the picture. Also drill out the holes in the horn to allow these screws to pass through.
Remove the 2 screws and offer the servo horn up to the main neck moulding (slight confession here, I really should have show this step before fitting the blue micro servo). Using the holes already drilled into the horn drill into the base of the moulding for the screws to screw into. Sorry about the Grammar, my old boss always told me never to use the same word twice in any one sentence!
Screw the horn onto its servo and then rotate so you can screw the neck assembly into position. If you are a belt and braces type then use some Araldite or similar at the same time. It is important that before you fit any horns to their servos that you centralise the servo either with a receiver, servo tester or if you're a real animal turn by hand to gauge the middle (I wouldn't recommend this last method as it can chew the gears on smaller servos).
Next to the arms. You will need to remove an arm from your donor figure, I'm not going to lie to you they don't like being separated. I usually persuade a large bladed screwdriver through the top of a shoulder, push it as far into the body as I can, then prise the two upper body halves apart with brute force!
The kit was designed around Dragon figures but you can sometimes use BBi, Ignite, 21C and several others. The main thing to look out for is that the shoulder is a single joint and not the double jounted affairs that some of the later figures incorporate. These should have a short stub, often with a disc moulded into the end, you will need to trim this down so the 6mm aluminium tube can slide over, right up to the arm. Don't fit the tube yet though.
Now it is very important to keep the linkage that you are about to create as short as possible due to the tight confines of the inner body. Take a bearing and place it over the Dragon arm stub after it has been trimmed as above. Trim off the excess so the stub is as long as the bearings thickness, then remove the bearing. You can now glue the 6mm tube over the arm stub, to avoid the shoulder joint from being glued up a light smear of vaseline or grease over the moving bits will suffice.
Now glue both bearings onto the arms as illustrated above. Again if you are worried about gluing the bearings up a light smear of Vaseline or Grease will keep them safe.
Once everything is dry measure 12-14mm from the inner bearing face and cut both 6mm tubes. Take a look at the instructions and you will see a diagram below step 7 that indicates the recommended angle you need to bend both tubes too. Use a pair of pliers and butt them up against the bearing, gauge the required angle and squash the tube flat, again on both arms. Carefully bend both tubes in the direction shown (towards the top back) then drill a small 1.5mm hole close to the end and file the end into a nice rounded shape if like me you like it to look neat.
Animatronic kits and completed figures.