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Late Production Tiger Project

Forum for discussion relating to Tiger 1, Mid, Early, Late Production and Sturmtiger
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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:59 pm

Thanks Tim. I will be interested to see the result. Saw these tools advertised on Mikes site. Had'nt seen them close up.

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Tim Bowman
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Post by Tim Bowman » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:46 pm

Hi everyone,

Finally found some time to apply one side of zimmerit on the Tiger. First, all the cable brackets were positioned and temporarily fitted to locate the holes that needed to be drilled. Once that was done, I could begin.

This is the lazy mans way to do with stand offs and hardware removed. I have done it both ways and chose to do the Tiger this way to keep it simple. The scale of the material makes it hard to get a scale look around finer details without a giant blob forming right where you don't want it.

Step One

Lightly sand all areas that will be receiving a coat of zimmerit. I don't go crazy, just rough it up a bit. For this, I used 150 grit sand paper because it was the first thing I grabbed. Normally I would use a 240 or something. Not important. I also keep a small container of water near by and some paper towels to occasionally clean off the tools. For the most part, excess can simply be scraped off into the container as needed.

The tools can be used at various angles to achieve a deep or shallow pattern. I guess I hold it at a near 45degree as I use it.

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Step Two

Applying the zimmerit is easily done using the tools and smearing over the area to be worked. I found working an area of around 6 inches (15cm) is easy to manage as you move along the length of the hull. This obviously varies when doing the front or rear plates.

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The completed side, still wet.

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Step Three

Placing the brackets and fender stand offs. Being careful not to mess up the still wet zimmerit.

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Here on my Panzer IV, the zimmerit was applied with the running gear in position.

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More coming this week on the Tiger's front and rear armor plates
best regards
Tim
"So long as one isn't carrying one's head under one's arm, things aren't too bad." – Erwin Rommel

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:05 am

You have two excellent tanks there. Thanks for posting the demonstration. It will be a big help.

Steve Norris
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Post by Steve Norris » Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:34 am

Tim,
Great job there, and it looks a lot quicker than using Milliput.
Can you tell me what paste you use for the Zim and is the aplicator from Mike Stannard ?
Regards
Steve

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:33 am

Hi Tim and Steve,
Steve go to the bottom of page 13 where Tim has posted the information on tools and paste.
I have a question about the lowered rear deck. Are the bulkheads attached to the hull or to the deck. I was planning to use Steve's method as posted in lowering the rear deck. In Steve's the bulkheads are attached to the hull. Will the deck remain as two separate parts or are they joined?

Steve, any input on this from you would be appreciated as I will be copying your method. Would it be ok if I pm you sometime if I have a question about how to do it?

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Adrian Harris
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Post by Adrian Harris » Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:23 pm

Wonderful sequence of photos Tim - it's great to see the steps you used to creae the effect, and to see Mike's zim combs in use.

Totally different from the Milliput method, and all the more interesting to see another way to achieve the effect.

Adrian.
R.I.P Margaret I.L.Y

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Tim Bowman
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Post by Tim Bowman » Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:26 pm

Hi John

At the moment, my deck and bulkheads could go either way. I am leaning towards keeping the deck as two separate pieces though. Removable as one or two pieces depending on access needed. I have some plans for the bulkheads and interior so right now, they are simply place holders.

Hi Steve, as John said, the zimmerit tools and material are mentioned on page 13.

With the Panther, I tried the various types of materials and could not get the others to work for me or to have the right look. I am way too impatient for ther miliput type application. The side hull above took about 20 minutes, start to finish(including the placing of the hardware). Work time is excellent and yet it does dry rather quickly after the job is complete. Cleans up easy with water and sands off easily if you want to redo it.

Not as durable as an epoxy putty but the Panther has held up just fine.

Kind regards
Tim
"So long as one isn't carrying one's head under one's arm, things aren't too bad." – Erwin Rommel

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Paul Morris
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Post by Paul Morris » Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:39 pm

Hi Tim.

I must say it really looks the part and when you have finished you don't need two weeks rest for your thumbs :D I was going to ask you how it stood up to the vibrations and bumps of a running tank but you have answered that above.Might need to try it myself so its a gypsum based filler for dry wall type systems yes?

Cheers Paul :wink:
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David Gray
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Post by David Gray » Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:45 pm

Hi Tim great job with the zimmerit , the stuff you have used looks
similar to the car filler i used , this has proved to be very hard wearing , and hasnt chipped or come off at all , love the panzer
1V
Dave Gray :D

Steve Norris
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Post by Steve Norris » Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:11 pm

Hi John/Tim
Just seen the post on page 13 about the Zim, Can,t believe i forgot about that :roll: .
I attached my deck supports to the hull and had a 2 piece hull deck, both parts could be removed seperatly. The aft hull support also formed part of the forward wall of my engine bay which was very usefull.
John,
PM me anytime.
Regards
Steve

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Tim Bowman
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Post by Tim Bowman » Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:18 am

Hi Paul, Yes. Gypsum based filler for dry wall work.

Hi Dave, Thanks. Body filler was something I tried a long time ago but could never get the balance of set up time vs. too droopy after texture was added(it sort of 'melted' and didn't have the crisp grooves. My hat is off to you and others that can use the other materials.

Completed the lower hull today. I may redo the front armor plate to add the radial pattern around the MG but I need to think about it some more.:roll: Now onto more detail parts. :)

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Tim
"So long as one isn't carrying one's head under one's arm, things aren't too bad." – Erwin Rommel

Mike Kasputis
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Post by Mike Kasputis » Tue Feb 22, 2011 3:00 am

SWEEET, that is looking great.
Don't forget the two parallel lines in front of the light as pointed out by Per Sonnervik (http://www.armortek.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... c&start=30).

Now hurry up and get The Pz IV camouflaged :)

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Kent Wiik
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Post by Kent Wiik » Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:41 am

Nice Tim (as usual!)

Every photo is now saved on my hard drive for later use.
Keep them coming.

Kind regards
Kent
It´s all in the details!

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:43 am

Good idea Kent to save these photos. I have printed out the whole build and so far it's bound in 2 volumes. With all that zimmerit added it looks good enough to eat.

Tim what paint are you using? I have used Vallego dark yellow on 1/16 models but it looks more of a green than yellow. I was thinking about having some made up in the original RAL code but not sure if the colour will translate well into this scale. Tamiya aerosols are too small.

Phil Woollard
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Post by Phil Woollard » Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:58 pm

If you use a auto motive spray say beige no1 to give your model a good base all over you can then go over with a Tamiya dark yellow(ts3) as a top coat and maybe use only 2 to 3 cans, the tamiya ts3 is such a nice paint.
The beige under coat will also give your model depth depending on the top coat coverage ie not so dark on some panels and darker on others
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