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Horrible Damp Weather and Models

Forum for Armortek Owners to Meet, chat and share knowledge. You are advised to check 'official advice' before carrying out any modifications.
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Allan Richards
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Horrible Damp Weather and Models

Post by Allan Richards » Fri Jan 28, 2011 3:35 pm

Just a word of warning to those of you who Keep your models in sheds and garages over cold and damp winters. I keep mine in a precast concrete garage which does tend to get a little damp in this cold wet weather, and then quite hot if we ever get a summer. I wanted to give the Tiger a run as it hasn't moved for about 6 months. I charged up the Futaba 6EXA Tx but it wouldn't work, the little display was almost faded out and it was bleeping as if the battery was flat. Needless to say it would not work and the tank did nothing. I thought it was the battery but I put the Tx in the airing cupboard to warm it up for an hour but still no good. I left it for 24 hours and then it worked ok as the moisture must have dried out. I've just given the tank a 1/2 hour run which did it good as it was going better at the end of the run however the cold east wind got the better of me.
Allan Richards

phil fitzpatrick
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Damp TX

Post by phil fitzpatrick » Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:52 pm

Hi Allan
Was the rest of your Tiger electronics ok and just the TX you had problems with?
If it was just your Tx,dont be cruel,give it a treat and let it stop in the
house with you :lol:
Cheers
Phil

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Allan Richards
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Post by Allan Richards » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:03 pm

Phil,

Fortunately the tank was ok. It has the first generation 4QD's which have their own cases but the rest of the electronics was fitted into plastic boxes. The Tx was laying on top of the tank. I will keep it indoors from now on.
Allan Richards

simon_manning
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Post by simon_manning » Fri Jan 28, 2011 10:44 pm

thats a good topic to raise alan about storage, lots of forum members have more than one vehicle aswell, i noticed in sudden temperature changes the metal can sweat even in a dry well ventulated workshop, if you can keep your vehicles in the house thats the best place, i have overcome this problem by having a large heated cabinet made to keep them in my workshop, but as you said alan its something to be aware of, good storage conditions are a must. regards simon manning.

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Stephen White
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Post by Stephen White » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:11 am

Good point Simon. I like the idea of a heated cupboard (but how do I tell my wife to go easy on the heat in the house in order to keep the tanks warm?) Thanks.

My Pz III has developed a fault through winter blues.

One of the tracks works perfectly in reverse but with forward stick it makes a very small movement and then stops. The fault does seem to be sensitive to heat and when the vehicle is warmer, the fault gradually disappears. I've checked that there's nothing binding in the drive train. I wonder if it's a problem with relays in the module?

I've also noticed that when the vehicle is cold, the on off switch on the power module sticks in the on position. Again, problem with a relay?

Any ideas gratefully received.

Thanks

Stephen

Allan Webster
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Post by Allan Webster » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:04 am

[quote="Stephen White"]but how do I tell my wife to go easy on the heat in the house in order to keep the tanks warm?)

Don't - just store the transmitter in whichever room your wife spends most time in.

Allan

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Allan Richards
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Post by Allan Richards » Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:18 pm

Stephen,

I think you might find that the problem with your model could just be temperature related. I am not sure of the temperature range specifications for the electronics in our models but I certainly had a fault develop whist the Tiger was in the hot sun at Peter Shaw's one day. I had parked it in the open with the sun beating down and when I switched it on again it had a mind of its own. I noticed that the top deck was too hot to touch so I dragged the model into the shade and left it for a bit and then it worked ok. Clearly cold could have similar effects and its been very cold for a long time here in the south east. I've noticed that some colleages on the classic car site have been suffering from micro blistered paint which is causing panic. It is a function of cold and damp and if you are fortunate it goes away when the temperature rises and the damp recedes. This could affect metal models also, especially if they start to "sweat" through temperature and humidity changes. Heated garages or cupboards are certainly a good idea.
Allan Richards

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Jan_Donadoni
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Post by Jan_Donadoni » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:02 pm

Hello,
from my personal experience the problems arise in high humidity environments when the temperature change is pretty "sudden".
An example. If you are wearing glasses like me, if you are coming from outside (in the cold) end enter suddenly in a hot humid environment... yes your glasses become pretty foggy!
but if the same happens slowly... than the problem does not come.

Another factor is if the air flow is continuos and strong in the area, or if it is a pretty closed area, where humidity can build up. (hope my english is clear enough)

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:22 pm

I think the heated cabinet is a good idea. Maybe the type of heater used for aquariums.

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Paul Morris
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Post by Paul Morris » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:10 pm

Hi Fellas.

I use tubular greenhouse heaters in my sheds a four footer will set you back less than £30 at an electrical retailers..they use very little power and have a frost setting and have always served me well...fingers crossed.
Cheers Paul :wink:
Paul's Tank Workshop. Complete Tank builds and re builds zimmerit and paint to museum quality standard. pjtigerman@aol.com
01524 720977
https://www.facebook.com/PaulsTankWorkshop

Christoffer Ahlfors
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Post by Christoffer Ahlfors » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:35 pm

Standard specs electronics is usually quite limited in temperature range. MIL spec is more adapted to the outdoors. I tested over christmas to leave my Tiger1 outdoors in -15C overnight. It went perfectly in the morning in that same temperature. It was a joy to drive in dry snow.
I am using a Brixlcontrol radio. The combination with Armortek electronics has been very reliable under these conditions, testifying that they both are very rugged indeed (in fact way outlasting the driver in such temp... :shock: ).
Check this out (more fun than you would imagine! :D ):
http://s980.photobucket.com/albums/ae29 ... i_4767.mp4
Condensing conditions, however, is a very different story and very destructive to any electronics.
British summer sun, I imagine, can produce temperatures that are way beyond the specs for any electronics inside. A fan might be a useful idea.

Cheers,
/Chris
Klotzen, nicht kleckern (Guderian on panzer tactics, but the way I interpret it - it applies to a great many things in life)

phil fitzpatrick
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Nice Snow

Post by phil fitzpatrick » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:56 pm

Hi Christoffer
Nice vidio's of your Tiger,I looked at the all.
Thats what you call proper snow,clean white and fluffy dry,looks like
you had lots of fun.
Cool(sorry) :oops:
Phil

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:56 pm

Very impressed with how your tank coped with deep snow. Hope you dried it well afterwards. Pity the videos are so short. Any problens with ice on the wheels? I drove my 1/16 Tiger in the snow and took video but do not know if 1/16 is allowed on this forum.

Christoffer Ahlfors
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Post by Christoffer Ahlfors » Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:52 pm

John Fitzsimons wrote: Hope you dried it well afterwards.
Yes, that is an issue. I am using a basement dryer in the garage and it does get quite wet when I drag a snowy tank in there. I have a large freezer and a rack of computers that keep the temp up, but still uncomfortable to work in at this time of the year.
John Fitzsimons wrote:Any problens with ice on the wheels?
I have learned two things:
1) If you can make snowballs (warmer than about -5C), the snow will pack up in the running gear.
2) Very loose track tension seems to be the way to go. That will compensate for any snow packing up on the idler - increasing tension.
Early this winter I test drove it in damp snow and with rather tensioned tracks. I could hear how I almost broke the tracks (or final gear housing...), but realized the danger in time. Interestingly, under such conditions the tracks had an inclination to climb the sprockets, but not with looser tension. Go figure. :o
Cheers,
/Chris
Klotzen, nicht kleckern (Guderian on panzer tactics, but the way I interpret it - it applies to a great many things in life)

simon_manning
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Post by simon_manning » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:49 pm

just a note to add to this topic, i have purchased 3 of the tubular green house heaters the same as paul morris, they are very good and safe , worth a look to over come this problem and not exspensive to run, i have mine on a timer aswell, regards simon manning.

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