Pz III New Build

Forum for discussion relating to the Panzer III/StuG III
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Stephen White
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Bump stops re-visited

Post by Stephen White » Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:00 pm

Seeing the last photo above, I finally decided I couldn't keep turning a blind eye to the swing arm bump stops after other Pz III builders have done such outstanding work in that area. My stops are in the wrong place and don't look the part. So....

How to start off with a large lump of ally and reduce it to swarf in about fifty easy moves:

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And these parts aren't even going on the tank. Madness. Having machined the main bit, added the cross piece in brass, then made an RTV silicone mould:

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Final output, four x bump stops. Bit of machining to do at the back and one or two small bubble voids to fill but I was surprised that Alumilite resin could hold such fine detail:

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Now to do the other side. How many weeks to the open day?

Regards

Stephen

David Gray
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Post by David Gray » Fri Jul 29, 2011 8:19 pm

outstanding Stephen , you really have pushed this model to new
levels
Dave :D

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Tim Bowman
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Post by Tim Bowman » Sat Jul 30, 2011 4:25 pm

Awesome.

Between this and Derek's renewed thread, I think I may need to change my plans on what the next project will be.

Thanks Stephen for the never ending inspiration.

Best regards
Tim
"So long as one isn't carrying one's head under one's arm, things aren't too bad." – Erwin Rommel

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Robert E Morey
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Post by Robert E Morey » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:17 pm

Stephen,
You never dissapoint, making just a lump of aluminum into a beautiful part and then resin duplicates to boot. You have all scratch builders salivating for more! Nice!
Bob

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Stephen White
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Bump stops finished

Post by Stephen White » Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:22 pm

The finished bump stops with the first coats of weathering:

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Regards

Stephen

Ian Rodney

Post by Ian Rodney » Mon Aug 01, 2011 4:23 pm

Hi Steve,

Great looking set of Panzer III Bump Stops.

Are you going to make them available to other members, if you get enough interested in buying them.

Or is this just a one-off project for your own PzIII!

Cheers
Ian
from Glasgow, Scotland

Steve Norris
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Post by Steve Norris » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:56 pm

Hi Stephen.
Great bump stops and well worth the effort as they will be visable on the finished tank.
Regards
Steve

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John Fitzsimons
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Post by John Fitzsimons » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:46 pm

It looks like a real tank rather than a model. Amazing work.

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Stephen White
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Post by Stephen White » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:44 pm

Thanks guys. Ian, I'm not really set up for production. Let's see if there is any interest.
All the best. Stephen

Ian Rodney

Post by Ian Rodney » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:53 pm

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for your reply.
As you say let's see if other Pz III builders are interested in
your bump stops.

Cheers
Ian

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Stephen White
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Track Painting

Post by Stephen White » Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:25 pm

Time to complete work on the tracks while they are off for the bump stops. I'll re-cap for the sake of completeness, having seen Anthony's timely post and Tim's reply.

Started off with a coat of red primer. For British tanks, the base would be a dark grey.

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Next comes a thin coat of Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylic #304, Track Primer:

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I then sealed this base with Citadel satin.

Now for the weathering. It's a question of building up successive layers, without over-doing any single technique. First comes a series of washes. I use Promodeller washes, which are water and clay based. The effect can be adjusted with a damp cloth or paper. The aim is to get colour into the tracks to form a base for the pigments which come next.

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Next, the pigments. I prefer to apply them dry, in various mixes, and then fix them with Mig Pigment Fixer, applied by carefully dabbing at the edges and using capillary action to spread. That way, the application can be controlled.

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The pigments seem to disappear when the fixer is applied but after leaving overnight, the true colour emerges.

I then very lightly spray a misted coat of Alclad II Steel to the surfaces where the track would rub on the roadwheels. I also mist on some Gunmetal to darken. The Alclad laquers are really excellent, giving a translucent layer which is very realistic.

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The weathering is now pretty much complete. One final touch is to go over any prominent edges with a brushed mixture of Vallejo Panzer Aces #302 Dark Rust andModel Colour #70822 German Camouflage Black Brown to highlight them. The Pz III track particularly lends itself to this. (Before on the right below):

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And that's pretty much it. Final look:

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Why bother? I agree with Tim's point that the weathering is a good base for "real world" weathering to take over as the tank is run. I've no idea what the mixture of simulated and real weathering will look like in the future but at least it left the shop looking right.

Hope this is useful. Apologies for the long post.

Stephen

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Paul Morris
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Post by Paul Morris » Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:47 pm

Hi Stephen.

Outstanding the whole way through mate, think I will have another go on the next tank I do.
Well done.
Cheers Paul :wink:
Paul's Tank Workshop. Complete Tank builds and re builds zimmerit and paint to museum quality standard. pjtigerman@aol.com
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Antony Rowley
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Post by Antony Rowley » Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:26 pm

Hi Stephen,

Fantastic :!: :!:

I've just put my grey coat on as per Tim's instructions and will do another very light matt black then onto the pigments. It seems you can add more or less depending on how you want them to look. I think it makes a real difference to the look of the tank when finished especially the spare links as they will stay more or less the same.

Thanks for the input and taking time to take all the photo's and explanation.

BTW, as extra section for techniques is a great idea, it will make searching a whole lot easier and with the expertise on here will be a great benefit to all.

Antony
Nord-West KampfGruppe, 1/6th Hetzer, 1/6 Schwimmwagen, 3 x r/c 1/6th Kettenkrad, 1/6th Marder Ausf M, 1/6th Panzer II Static...the collection is growing again....

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Stephen White
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Cupola and Split Hatches

Post by Stephen White » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:11 pm

Back to Brian Leach's cupola for the last bits.

The Armorpax split hatches are a tad too large having been sized for the Armortek kit cupola:

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So I milled off the required amount, leaving the lip to be replaced with brass. The hinges were too widely separated and too long for the scale cuploa, so off with them too. It's the first time I've attempted to solder white metal and brass. There is a whole saga on the net about using two different solders, a cool iron etc. I just soldered with conventional Savabit electrical solder and the white metal didn't disappear, although I did move carefully:

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Test fit:

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Regards

Stephen

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Split Hatches Mounted

Post by Stephen White » Sat Aug 13, 2011 5:58 pm

Work on the new hinges for the split hatches continued. Machined a bar for the four hatch hasps:

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And another for the central hinge plates:

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Trial mounting:


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Brian Leach's great cuplola is made from a powered material in the 3 D printer. The detail is great but I added backing plates to the hinges on both sides to reinforce the material as the white metal hatches are relatively heavy. The detail on the Armorpax parts, once corrected for size, is also great and the combination works.

Finished mounting. Some detail still to add, incl the locking bar and raising the bump stops to correct the sit of the hatches when open.

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Regards

Stephen

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